Floating on the Dead Sea and marching around Massada

Yesterday we spent the morning at Ramat Hanadiv, the memorial gardens dedicated to the memory of Baron Rothschild and the site of Hugh's workshop which is ten minutes drive from Zichron-Ya'acov. At the heart of the gardens lies the crypt of the Baron and his wife and there is a theatre where you are able to watch original footage of the Baron's many visits to Israel in the 1920's. It is quite fascinating. After a spot of bird-watching at a nearby kibbutz's fish farm, we make the much awaited drive to what some people consider to be the heart of the world - Jerusalem. Our hotel is just outside the city walls and we have a fabulous view of the ramparts and the citadel all lit up. We are lucky to have Eric, a knowledgeable member of our group, who points out many of the landmarks to us. But it will be a few days until we are able to explore the holy city ourselves.

As today we are up early for a big drive through the Judean desert to the Dead Sea and the histric fort of Massada. It is unseasonably hot so I am very relieved that the big hike to the top of Ein Gedi nature reserve has been modified. It is very strange to be 400m below sea level yet be surrounded by towering cliffs. The reserve is home to many animals such as the leopard, ibex and a funny guinea pig like creature called the rock hyrax. There are several springs that provide much needed coolness and shade in this harsh environment. The place is packed with many school groups and devout Hassidic Jews dressed in black with distictive head-gear and sidelocks. It is a sacred biblical site as David fled here after felling Golliath with his sling shot. On the way here we pass the caves of Qumran, where the Dead Sea scrolls were found.

Finally we reach the Dead Sea, only to be dismayed by learning that the sea is in fact disappearing as not enough water is flowing through the Jordan river (a sadly familiar tale to the Murray river in Australia), which is the source for the Dead Sea. So you have to walk a fair way out now to reach the shore and the area is becoming quite dangerous with the appearance of many sink-holes. We all rush to get into our bathers to get into the water. At first the water feels quite normal but once up above your knees you sink to your back and your feet bob up above the water. It is funny at first but quite disturbing if you try to put your feet down under the water because you can't. After five minutes of fighting the water I decide to swim back and am very relieved when my feet can touch the ground again. You have to wash the water off quite quickly as it can sting and your skin feels rather oily.

The real highlight of the day for me is the visit to the spectacular world heritage listed hill-top fortress of Massada. I should perhaps explain here that I am an obsessive seeker of world heritage sites and I am pleased that this visit to Israel is giving me numerous opportunities to add to my list. The landscape is almost unbelievable with miles of desolate cliffs and wadis as far as the eye can see, not unlike a mini grand canyon but without the cacti. We ride an amazing cable car to the top and spend the next couple of hours wandering around ruined palaces, bath houses and religious buildings. Massada is of course famous for being the stronghold of Jewish rebels who made their last stand against the Romans here in 66-70 AD. It is a really wonderful site and a great end to our day.