Exploring the Old City of Jerusalem

I am very excited to be dragging my suitcase up the hill towards the Jaffa gate, one of the eight gates into the Old City of Jerusalem, next to the citadel of David. Our guesthouse, which used to be the original British Consulate building, is fortunately located near to this gate, so can leave our luggage there and begin our exploration of the Old City without too much trouble. We decide to go straight onto the ramparts which encircle the city and walk towards the Jewish quarter and the Wailing Wall. The views over the City and surrounding areas are fantastic with the gold and blue Dome of the Rock looking magnificent in the bright sun. We explore the archeological park next to the wailing wall which has revealed a Herodian Jewish street complete with shops and ritual baths that would have led to the Second Temple.

Then we wander through the city, along the original flagstones of the Roman road or Cardo as it is called here and past all the covered souks. My aim is to buy a Roman coin as they are apparently plentiful here, so we visit a few antique shops and jewellry stores much to Hugh's alarm. I decide to return another time alone and then I buy a lovely coral and lapis lazuli necklace with a roman coin that you see pictured. We walk along the Via Dolorosa, believed to be the route taken by Jesus to his execution. There are about fourteen stations of the cross along this route commemorating the gospel events. There are a lot of people who appear out of chapels along the route carrying crosses and singing songs to recreate the cruxifiction. Along with the shop keepers who try and lure you into their stores, it makes for a noisy and crowded spectacle.

Later in the afternoon we visit the Church of the Holy Sepuchre which has a long queue of people who want to kiss the spot where Jesus was allegedly crucified and buried. We are more interested in observing the frosty relations which plague this holiest spot in Christendom as the Church is shared between six Christian communities - the Latins (Roman Catholics), Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, Syrian Orthodox, Ethiopians and Copts. No-one can agree on anything including repairs which can take up to fifty years to happen, and there is often actual violence between the sects over territory and imagined or real insults. It is rather funny I think. We have a lovely dinner on a roof top terrace overlooking the blue domes of the Church and the City and I have fun lecturing Hugh on the origins of Christianity, my special subject. He is quite a good listener I must say.

On our last day in Jerusalem we walk along the Northern section of the ramparts passing the beautiful Damascus gate and enter the Moslem quarter. We notice a great increase in security in this area and are slightly concerned to see police with riot shields. None of the residents seem terribly alarmed so we press on to the Lion's gate where we exit the Old City to visit the Rockefeller Museum, home to the famous Megiddo ivories and other wonderful archeological finds. Hugh's interest in ancient things is waning but I am ruthless, so we finish by visiting the Tower of David or Citadel which has an excellent display on the history of the City and more wonderful views. We enjoy a meal in the Armenian quarter near our guesthouse tired but, at least in my case, reasonably satisfied with out short visit to the heart of the world.