A Night at the Opera

Well - the big day finally arrived - we dressed up in our finery and caught the bus to the Opera for the production of La Cenerentola or Cinderella by Rossini. Very fortuitously, the bus outside our apartment goes right by the opera house - I love my no. 21 bus! We arrive freakishly early as usual but have plenty of time to wander around the foyer, grand staircase and main salon. It is La Belle Epoque on steroids - gilded statues everywhere, chandeliers as far as the eye can see and many frescoed ceilings. I love it, but Hugh seems to think it is a bit over the top. We get some drinks and I start people watching. Alas it is very disappointing, as most people appear to be in jeans and daggy parkas. I am appalled - standards have really dropped! So instead I try to imagine what it must have looked like when people wore beautiful gowns, sparkly jewelry and dinner jackets.

We have to wait until everyone is seated before we can enter the balcony because we were only able to get these dinky little seats at the end of the row, that pull out blocking the exits - at least we are ok if there is a fire - it's a pity about everyone else! We have a great view as you can see in the photo and I find the seat surprisingly comfortable (or at least less uncomfortable than I imagined) and I spend the time gazing around the incredible space, admiring more gilded statues, red velvet and beautiful balconies. The best bit is probably the amazing ceiling painted by Chagall which is divine but causes a lot of neck pain to view - a little like the Sistine chapel - but it is worth it, as he has painted scenes from famous operas like the Magic Flute and ballets like Swan Lake. It is a strange contrast to all the Empire glory of the rest of the theatre but seems to work well.

 I get that familiar thrill as the lights dim, the orchestra begins and the curtain lifts - the anticipation is so exciting! However the set, at first, is a little disappointing - it appears to be a black and white drawing of a dilapidated castle but then as the music swells, the lighting changes and the building takes shape. It is made of curtains that lift, revealing the interior, rather like an old-fashioned cardboard dolls house. It is gorgeous and reveals the ugly step-sisters in their boudoirs, the mean step-father (not step-mother in this version) in his attic bedroom and Cinderella, or Angelina, as she is called here, in the kitchen by the fire-place. The step-sisters and father are very funny and it is almost like a pantomime at times - no melodrama or tragedy in this Opera - just people in disguises and of course love at fist sight. Cinderella and Prince Charming (unfortunately he is rather short and stout) have wonderful voices and their duets are just beautiful. Her transformation at the ball is everything that I was hoping for - she wears a black velvet dress with silver embroidery and heaps of sparkling gems - finally someone is suitably attired for the surroundings! In the final scene where everyone is revealed in their true characters she is again superb in a white satin wedding dress. It was really wonderful and an amazing experience.

 The bus ride home was great too as our bus goes past the Louvre, St. Germain L'Auxerrois, my favourite church, the Conciergerie and the Notre Dame all illuminated at night. We even got a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower, all lit up and sparkly, sending out its laser beams across Paris. All very romantic - it had even rained earlier giving Paris that quintessential look that you see in movies! Definitely a night out to remember.